http://www.leopardgeckowiki.com/index.php?title=Special:NewPages&feed=atom&limit=50&offset=&namespace=0&username=&tagfilter=&size-mode=max&size=0Leopard Gecko Wiki - New pages [en]2024-03-29T14:30:31ZFrom Leopard Gecko WikiMediaWiki 1.35.10http://www.leopardgeckowiki.com/index.php/Leopard_Gecko_BreedersLeopard Gecko Breeders2021-03-03T01:14:17Z<p>WikiAdmin: /* Ohio */</p>
<hr />
<div>==Leopard Gecko Breeders==<br />
<br />
==Michigan==<br />
* [https://www.facebook.com/EllisonReptiles/ Ellison Reptiles]<br />
<br />
==Ohio==<br />
* [https://www.facebook.com/JeffGalewoodjr/ JMG Reptiles]<br />
* [https://www.ohiogecko.com/ Ohio Gecko]<br />
<br />
[[Category:Community Portal]]</div>WikiAdminhttp://www.leopardgeckowiki.com/index.php/FeedersFeeders2021-03-03T01:12:22Z<p>WikiAdmin: /* Feeders */</p>
<hr />
<div>== Feeders ==<br />
* [http://www.buydubiaroaches.com/ Buy Dubia Roaches]<br />
* [http://www.grubco.com/ Grubco]<br />
* [http://www.nyworms.com/ Ny Worms]<br />
* [http://www.reptilefood.com/ Reptile Food]<br />
* [http://www.southernbaitworms.com/ Southern Bait Worms]<br />
* [http://www.southerncricket.com/ Southern Crickets]<br />
* [http://www.sunshinemealworms.com/ Sunshine Mealworms]<br />
* [http://www.theroachranch.com/ The Roach Ranch]<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Category:Community Portal]]</div>WikiAdminhttp://www.leopardgeckowiki.com/index.php/SuppliesSupplies2021-03-03T01:07:24Z<p>WikiAdmin: </p>
<hr />
<div>== Supplies ==<br />
* [http://www.beanfarm.com/ Bean Farm]<br />
* [http://www.bigappleherp.com/ Big Apple Herp]<br />
* [http://www.helixcontrols.com/ Helix Controls]<br />
* [http://www.lllreptile.com/ LLLReptile]<br />
* [http://www.pangeareptile.com/ Pangea Reptiles]<br />
* [http://www.petmountain.com/ Pet Mountain]<br />
* [http://www.petstore.com/ Pet Store]<br />
* [http://www.progeckos.com/ Pro Geckos]<br />
* [http://www.reptilebasics.com/ Reptile Basics]<br />
* [http://www.reptilesupply.com/ Reptile Supply]<br />
* [http://www.spyderrobotics.com/ Spyder Robotics]<br />
* [http://www.tsksupplies.com/ TSK Supplies]<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Category:Community Portal]]</div>WikiAdminhttp://www.leopardgeckowiki.com/index.php/CodominantCodominant2021-02-27T02:31:53Z<p>WikiAdmin: Created page with "== Codominant == A genetic trait, which is Codominant, is morph that is a blend of two different traits. When speaking Leopard Gecko genetics, the Giant morph is the easie..."</p>
<hr />
<div>== Codominant ==<br />
A genetic trait, which is Codominant, is morph that is a blend of two different traits. When speaking Leopard Gecko genetics, the [[Giant]] morph is the easiest to relate to. There are three different phases of the [[Giant]]s, [[Normal]]s (Do not show any Giant signs), Giants (are [[heterozygous]] for [[Super Giant]]), and [[Super Giant]]s (the [[homozygous]] form of the morph.<br />
<br />
It is easy to see how the Giant morph would blend. A genetic Super Giant is a Leopard Gecko over 125 grams and that can reach 12 inches in length from nose to tail tip. A Normal Leopard Gecko is generally eight to ten inches in length from nose to tail and will rarely break 90 grams. The blend between the Super Giants and Normals, the Giants will be between ten and 12 inches and 90 grams to 125 grams.<br />
<br />
The following pairings would create the following results:<br />
<br />
* Giant x Normal = 50% Giants and 50% Normals<br />
* Giant x Giant = 25% Normals, 50% Giants, and 25% Super Giants<br />
* Super Giant x Normal = 100% Giants<br />
* Super Giant x Super Giant = 100% Super Giants<br />
* Super Giant x Giant = 50% Super Giants and 50% Giants<br />
<br />
[[Category:Genetics]]</div>WikiAdminhttp://www.leopardgeckowiki.com/index.php/AlbinoAlbino2021-02-26T10:56:22Z<p>WikiAdmin: Created page with "===Albino=== There are three albino strains in Leopard Geckos. * Tremper Albino * Bell Albino * Rainwater Albino Category:Morphs"</p>
<hr />
<div>===Albino===<br />
There are three albino strains in Leopard Geckos.<br />
<br />
* [[Tremper Albino]]<br />
* [[Bell Albino]]<br />
* [[Rainwater Albino]]<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Category:Morphs]]</div>WikiAdminhttp://www.leopardgeckowiki.com/index.php/RecessiveRecessive2021-02-25T22:10:43Z<p>WikiAdmin: </p>
<hr />
<div>== Recessive ==<br />
[[File:Recessive.jpg|right|this is the initial pairing, f1.]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Recessive het.jpg|this shows the breakdown of "het" patternless x "het" patternless. this would be f2.]]<br />
<br />
A gene which is recessive only shows their effect if there are two copies of the gene in the pair of alleles from their parents. When using a Punnent Square, recessive traits are shown by using a lower case letter. An example of a recessive trait ([[Murphy Patternless]]) crossed with a Normal can be seen on the right.<br />
<br />
<br />
When dealing with recessive traits, it takes two generations to show the trait. In our example, all of the F1, or First Generation babies will be heterozygous for the trait. To achieve a gecko who is homozygous for Murphy Patternless, the easiest route would be to breed the hatchlings to each other. There would be a 25% chance of creating a Murphy Patternless Leopard Gecko in the F2, or Second Generation. The other possibilities are 25% Normal, and 50% Normal heterozygous or het for Murphy Patternless.<br />
<br />
<br />
Currently there are a few recessive traits in Leopard Geckos. They can be seen below:<br />
* [[Tremper Albino]]<br />
* [[Rainwater Albino]]<br />
* [[Bell Albino]]<br />
* [[Blizzard]]<br />
* [[Murphy Patternless]]<br />
* [[Eclipse]]<br />
--MK Geckos 16:07, 18 September 2007 (EDT)<br />
<br />
[[Category:Genetics]]</div>WikiAdminhttp://www.leopardgeckowiki.com/index.php/PolygenicPolygenic2021-02-25T22:00:59Z<p>WikiAdmin: </p>
<hr />
<div>== Polygenic Inheritance ==<br />
Polygenic inheritance is often referred to as line breeding in the reptile world. Multiple genes combine to give particular traits.<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Category:Genetics]]</div>WikiAdminhttp://www.leopardgeckowiki.com/index.php/Incomplete_DominanceIncomplete Dominance2021-02-25T21:53:04Z<p>WikiAdmin: </p>
<hr />
<div>== Incomplete Dominance ==<br />
https://www.biologyonline.com/dictionary/incomplete-dominance<br />
<br />
* [[Mack Snow]] heterogeneous incomplete dominance<br />
* [[Super Snow]] homogeneous incomplete dominance<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Category:Genetics]]</div>WikiAdminhttp://www.leopardgeckowiki.com/index.php/HomozygousHomozygous2021-02-25T21:46:38Z<p>WikiAdmin: </p>
<hr />
<div>== Homozygous Trait ==<br />
When a Leopard Gecko is homozygous for a trait, it means it has two copies of the gene. An example of a Leopard Gecko who is homozygous for a trait is an albino. Every Leopard Gecko who is an albino, no matter what the strand, it is homozygous for its strand.<br />
<br />
When using the letters on the Punnent Square, a homozygous trait would be represented by either two lowercase letters who are the same or by two uppercase letters which are the same.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Category:Genetics]]</div>WikiAdminhttp://www.leopardgeckowiki.com/index.php/HeterozygousHeterozygous2021-02-25T21:45:36Z<p>WikiAdmin: </p>
<hr />
<div>== Heterozygous Trait ==<br />
When a Leopard Gecko is heterozygous for a trait, it means it has one copy of the gene. An example of a Leopard Gecko who is heterozygous for a trait is a [[Mack Snow]]. In all reality, Mack Snows are heterozygous to be [[Super Snow]]s. You need two of the Mack Snow trait ([[homozygous]]) to create a [[Super Snow]].<br />
<br />
When using the letters on the Punnent Square, a heterozygous trait would be represented by a lowercase letter and a uppercase letter or two different letters both different cases.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Category:Genetics]]</div>WikiAdminhttp://www.leopardgeckowiki.com/index.php/DominantDominant2021-02-25T21:34:08Z<p>WikiAdmin: </p>
<hr />
<div>== Dominant Gene ==<br />
A gene which is dominant shows their effect even if there is only one copy of that gene in the pair of alleles from their parents. When using a Punnent Square, dominant traits are shown by using a capital letter. An example of a dominant trait (Mack Snow) crossed with a Normal can be seen on the left.<br />
<br />
An Example of a Punnent Square with a Dominant Trait<br />
[[File:Punnent Square.jpg|center|An Example of a Punnent Square with a Dominant Trait]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Below you can see a list of Dominant, Incomplete Dominant, and Co Dominant morphs in Leopard Geckos.<br />
* [[Hypo Melanistic|Hypo]] (Ray Hines)<br />
* [[Mack Snow]]<br />
* [[Enigma]]<br />
* [[White and Yellow]]<br />
* [[Giant]]s<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Category:Genetics]]</div>WikiAdminhttp://www.leopardgeckowiki.com/index.php/BEEBEE2021-02-20T21:04:43Z<p>WikiAdmin: /* BEE (Black Eyed Enigma) */</p>
<hr />
<div>== BEE ('''B'''lack '''E'''yed '''E'''nigma)==<br />
This is a combo morph of [[Enigma]] and [[Eclipse]], resulting in a [[Enigma]] with solid or partially solid black eyes.<br />
<br />
== Genetics ==<br />
* [[Eclipse]]: [[recessive]]<br />
* [[Enigma]]: [[dominant]]<br />
<br />
== Images ==<br />
[[File:Mmenigmaeclipse2.jpg|thumb|center|eclipse enigma]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Mmenigmaeclipse3.jpg|thumb|center|Eclipse Enigma body ]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Bee3.jpg|thumb|center|BEE: eclipse enigma]]<br />
<br />
== Image Reference ==<br />
* Baronak, Matt. A&M Geckos. <http://www.amgecko.com>.<br />
* Rekowski, Mike. Reptiles by Rekowski. <http://www.reptilesbyrekowski.com>.<br />
<br />
[[Category:Morphs]]</div>WikiAdminhttp://www.leopardgeckowiki.com/index.php/Wiki_How_ToWiki How To2021-02-15T06:52:24Z<p>WikiAdmin: Created page with "== Tutorial for Creating a Page == This page is designed to give a basic walk-through about how to create pages for the Leopard Gecko Wiki. It will go into detail about how to..."</p>
<hr />
<div>== Tutorial for Creating a Page ==<br />
This page is designed to give a basic walk-through about how to create pages for the Leopard Gecko Wiki. It will go into detail about how to create headers, add pictures, format text, add links, and put the page into the correct category.<br />
<br />
== Page Creation / Editing ==<br />
It is very easy to create a page or edit a page on the Leopard Gecko Wiki. Simply type the subject into the search bar located on the left hand side of the page. If there is no article for the subject, simply click Create New Article<br />
<br />
New wiki.jpg<br />
<br />
If there is an existing article and you wish to add information or edit incorrect information, simply click the Edit tab located on the top of the page.<br />
<br />
Edit wiki.jpg<br />
<br />
== Basic Formatting ==<br />
The Media Wiki software makes it very simple to format the information you are providing to your community. Listed below are a few basic formatting tools which you may come across when creating/editing your Wiki page:<br />
<br />
Function Code How It Looks<br />
Table Heading <br />
== Leopard Gecko ==<br />
Bold <br />
'''Leopard Gecko'''<br />
Leopard Gecko<br />
Italics <br />
''Leopard Gecko''<br />
Leopard Gecko<br />
Bold and Italics <br />
'''''Leopard Gecko'''''<br />
Leopard Gecko<br />
<br />
== Category ==<br />
It is '''VERY''' important to keep the Leopard Gecko Wiki organized. This will make it easier to search information and to browse through information. When creating a page, it is always important to put it in the correct category. This is how the category Code looks:<br />
<br />
[[Category:Help]]<br />
The text will show at the bottom of the page.<br />
<br />
== Images ==<br />
This section will go into detail about adding images, captions, making the images thumbnails, and alignment of the image.<br />
<br />
One thing to note about putting images in the articles is how to upload the pictures to the Wiki. The link to uploading the pictures can be seen here Special:Upload<br />
<br />
Function Code How It Looks<br />
Image Only <br />
[[Image:Super_snow_hatchling.jpg]]<br />
Super snow hatchling.jpg<br />
<br />
Image with Caption <br />
[[Image:Super_snow_hatchling.jpg<br />
|Super Snow Hatchling]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Super Snow Hatchling<br />
Image Thumbnail <br />
[[Image:Super_snow_hatchling.jpg<br />
|thumb]]<br />
Super snow hatchling.jpg<br />
<br />
Image with Caption as Thumbnail <br />
[[Image:Super_snow_hatchling.jpg<br />
|thumb|Super Snow Hatchling]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Super Snow Hatchling<br />
Image Align Left <br />
[[Image:Super_snow_hatchling.jpg<br />
|left]]<br />
Super snow hatchling.jpg<br />
<br />
Image Align Center <br />
[[Image:Super_snow_hatchling.jpg<br />
|center]]<br />
Super snow hatchling.jpg<br />
<br />
Image Align Right <br />
[[Image:Super_snow_hatchling.jpg<br />
|right]]<br />
Super snow hatchling.jpg<br />
<br />
Image Align Right Thumbnail with Caption <br />
[[Image:Super_snow_hatchling.jpg<br />
|right|thumb|Super Snow Hatchling]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Super Snow Hatchling<br />
<br />
== Links ==<br />
There are many different types of links. On the table below you will be able to see all of the different types and how to make the link work in the Leopard Gecko Wiki.<br />
<br />
Function<br />
<br />
Code<br />
<br />
How It Looks<br />
<br />
Internal Wiki Link There is already a page created for this topic <br />
[[Mack Snow]]<br />
Mack Snow<br />
Changing the Text Display (Internal) Changes the way the link looks <br />
[[Mack Snow | In depth Mack Snow Section]]<br />
In depth Mack Snow Section<br />
No Existed Internal Link There is no page in the database for the link. It will show up in red. <br />
[[African Fat Tail]]<br />
African Fat Tail<br />
External Link You are linking to a page on the internet. <br />
[http://www.geckoforums.net]<br />
[1]<br />
Changing the Text Display (External) Changes the way the link looks <br />
[http://www.geckoforums.net Gecko Forums]<br />
Gecko Forums<br />
== <br />
Lists ==<br />
There are two different types of lists you can display when creating or editing a Leopard Gecko Wiki page: bulleted lists and numeric lists.<br />
<br />
Function Code How It Looks<br />
Numeric List <br />
# Mack Snow<br />
# Super Snow<br />
Mack Snow<br />
Super Snow<br />
Bulleted List <br />
*Mack Snow<br />
*Super Snow<br />
Mack Snow<br />
Super Snow<br />
Category:Help<br />
--MK Geckos 16:55, 10 August 2007 (EDT)<br />
[[Category:Help]]</div>WikiAdminhttp://www.leopardgeckowiki.com/index.php/Site_SponsorSite Sponsor2021-02-15T06:17:09Z<p>WikiAdmin: /* Leopard Gecko Wiki Site Sponsor */</p>
<hr />
<div>== Leopard Gecko Wiki Site Sponsor ==<br />
The Leopard Gecko Wiki is the only searchable database of Leopard Gecko information including Basic Care, Morphs, Health, and Genetics. Our goal is to bring reliable information to beginning Leopard Gecko owners, experienced breeders, and future owners.<br />
<br />
=== Footer Banner ===<br />
The Footer Banners are 240 x 60. These banners do not rotate and will be seen on every page of the Leopard Gecko Wiki. There are 4 spots!<br />
<br />
* Footer Banner<br />
** 1 Month $15<br />
** 6 Month $80<br />
** 1 Year $150<br />
<br />
=== Left Side Banner ===<br />
Left side banners measure 125 x 125. They do not rotate and will show up on every page of the Leopard Gecko Wiki! There are limited spots available! This is only $120 per year, 4!<br />
<br />
* Left Side Banner<br />
** 1 Year $200<br />
<br />
=== Right Side Banner ===<br />
Each right side banner ad is a 125 x 125. They do not rotate and will show up on every page of the Leopard Gecko Wiki! There are limited spots available, 7!<br />
* Right Side Banner<br />
** 1 Year $200<br />
<br />
== How To Become a Leopard Gecko Wiki Site Sponsor ==<br />
Please contact the Leopard Gecko Wiki at thad@ohiogecko.com to inquire about site sponsor spots.</div>WikiAdminhttp://www.leopardgeckowiki.com/index.php/Share_the_WikiShare the Wiki2021-02-15T05:52:43Z<p>WikiAdmin: /* 120x60 */</p>
<hr />
<div>== Share the Wiki ==<br />
Help the Leopard Gecko Wiki spread the word about Leopard Gecko Information. Add one of the following links to your site!<br />
<br />
=== 468x60 ===<br />
[[File:LGW486x60.jpg|center|486x60 Leopard Gecko Wiki Banner]]<br />
<a href="http://leopardgeckowiki.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://leopardgeckowiki.com/share/lgw486x60.jpg" alt="leopard gecko wiki" width="486" height="60" border="0" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
=== 234x60 ===<br />
[[File:LGW234x60.jpg|center|LGW234x60 Leopard Gecko Wiki Banner]]<br />
<br />
<a href="http://LeopardGeckoWiki.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://LeopardGeckoWiki.com/share/LGW234x60.jpg" alt="Leopard Gecko Wiki" width="234" height="60" border="0" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
=== 125x125 ===<br />
[[File:LGW125x125.jpg|center|lgw125x125 leopard gecko wiki banner]]<br />
<a href="http://LeopardGeckoWiki.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://LeopardGeckoWiki.com/share/LGW125x125.png" alt="Leopard Gecko Wiki" width="125" height="125" border="0" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
=== 120x60 ===<br />
[[File:LGW120x60.jpg|center|LGW120x60 leopard gecko wiki banner]]<br />
<br />
<a href="http://LeopardGeckoWiki.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://LeopardGeckoWiki.com/share/LGW120x60.jpg" alt="Leopard Gecko Wiki" width="120" height="60" border="0" /></a></div>WikiAdminhttp://www.leopardgeckowiki.com/index.php/Tail_LossTail Loss2021-02-14T06:54:57Z<p>WikiAdmin: Created page with "== Tail Loss == Notice the growth of the tail after the tail break. Like many Geckos and Lizards, Leopard Geckos have the ability to drop their tails. Leopard Geckos usually d..."</p>
<hr />
<div>== Tail Loss ==<br />
Notice the growth of the tail after the tail break.<br />
Like many Geckos and Lizards, Leopard Geckos have the ability to drop their tails. Leopard Geckos usually drop their tails due to rough handling, as a defense mechanism, or cage mate aggression. When a Leopard Gecko re-grows its tail, it usually does not look like the original tail, as seen in the picture to the right or below.<br />
<br />
== Tail Loss Care ==<br />
When dealing with a tail loss, to ensure proper growth and to reduce the chance of infection, Neosporin without pain reliever should be rubbed on the wound once a day until the wound has healed.<br />
<br />
Also if a Leopard Gecko who has lost its tail is housed with other geckos, it should be separated until it has fully healed.<br />
<br />
[[Category:Health]]</div>WikiAdminhttp://www.leopardgeckowiki.com/index.php/MBDMBD2021-02-14T06:50:36Z<p>WikiAdmin: </p>
<hr />
<div>== MBD ==<br />
<br />
This Mack Stripe hatched with MBD.<br />
MBD is the abbreviation for Metabolic Bone Disease. This is a very common disease with the novice owner, because the geckos are not supplemented with calcium. Some of the characteristics of MBD are bowed limbs, spongy jaw bone, lethargy, and sluggish movement. Also, many geckos will slowly lose weight since they are unable to move quickly without pain and unable to bite their food since their jaws are softened by the disease. If you suspect your gecko has MBD, it should be taken to the vet ASAP. The most common treatments include separating the gecko into its own enclosure, vitamin D injections once per week for 2 weeks and administration of liquid calcium. MBD is NOT associated with impaction in any way.<br />
<br />
[[Category:Health]]</div>WikiAdminhttp://www.leopardgeckowiki.com/index.php/ImpactionImpaction2021-02-14T06:49:48Z<p>WikiAdmin: /* Other causes */</p>
<hr />
<div>== Impaction ==<br />
Impaction is a major health problem not only for leopard geckos, but for almost every reptile. The main cause of impaction is sand or other loose substrate (Gravel, walnut shell, quartz, ect.) that your gecko might ingest during feeding. The ingested substrate doesn't digest like the rest of the food in its stomach, and either forms a mass in the stomach, or passes into the intestines and creates a blockage. This blockage prevents the gecko from pooping, and the gecko will stop eating. The sick leopard gecko will grow weak, and eventually die if not treated.<br />
<br />
== Symptoms ==<br />
Early signs of impaction are lethargy, failure to eat or poop and a bloated belly. A warm soak and a drop of olive oil or mineral oil may help the gecko to pass the impacted matter. If the impaction isn't passed, the gecko will develop a thin tail as it loses weight, barely opened eyes, increasing lethargy, and a dark blue spot on his/her side. If any of these more extreme symptoms occur, rush your leopard gecko to a vet IMMEDIATELY. Impaction CAN KILL YOUR GECKO.<br />
<br />
== Prevention ==<br />
Prevention of impaction is extremely easy. Just use a substrate like repti-carpet, astro turf, paper towels, tiles, newspaper, brown paper bags, or shelf topping.<br />
<br />
== Other causes ==<br />
On rare occasion, there are other things that can impact your gecko. Sometimes, part of an undigested mealworm or other hard-exoskeleton insect can get lodged in your gecko's intestines. Sometimes a cyst will form inside your gecko's stomach or intestines and cause a blockage. However, that is an extremely rare occurance.<br />
<br />
[[Category:Health]]</div>WikiAdminhttp://www.leopardgeckowiki.com/index.php/CryptoCrypto2021-02-14T06:47:31Z<p>WikiAdmin: /* Works Cited */</p>
<hr />
<div>== Purpose ==<br />
This provides some facts and common myths about the parasite Cryptosporidium, aka “crypto”, in a comprehensive article targeted for the average lizard keeper, hobbyist, and breeder.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Description ==<br />
There are eleven strains of Cryptosporidium, which is a mutant form of Coccidia. These are single-celled protozoan parasites with a direct life cycle, which means that the microorganism can complete its life cycle (from egg to larvae to adult) within a single host animal’s body. Generally speaking, these parasites are ‘host specific’, meaning that certain strains of Cryptosporidium are adapted to cause disease only in specific hosts. The strains of crypto that infect reptiles are Cryptosporidium serpentis, and Cryptosporidium saurophilum. Unlike some myths claim, these strains are not zoonotic, or transmissible to humans or other mammals.<br />
<br />
Most reptiles are considered susceptible to Cryptosporidiosis, especially snakes. Crocodilians are not known to have crypto. Rare cases of non-alimentary Cryptosporidium have been found in the kidneys and salivary glands of Iguanas. Cryptosporidium parvum is often observed when testing the feces of snakes, but this strain of crypto only causes infection in mammals, and most likely originates from mice feeders passing though the snake’s GI system.<br />
<br />
Crypto affects snakes and lizards differently, and is much more difficult to diagnose in lizards because the symptoms are more elusive than in snakes. In lizards, the parasite invades the GI tract in the lining of the intestines creating inflammation and lesions that severely inhibit the absorption of nutrients. In snakes, it is the stomach wall that is affected which can cause fatal internal hemorrhaging.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Contagion and Transmission ==<br />
Some experts claim that ALL lizards have Cryptosporidium, but this is completely unfounded and false. Most reptiles do carry sub-clinical, non-problematic coccidian microorganisms, but not crypto. Contrary to common myths, crypto is not easily transmitted by casual contact with skin and clothes. In its reproductive stage, when oocysts (spores/eggs) are being shed, Cryptosporidia infection is spread by contact via oral and fecal contamination. Reptiles that are infected with Cryptosporidia pass oocysts through their feces, and orally via water and food bowls.<br />
<br />
When uninfected reptiles share water and food bowls with infected animals, they can ingest crypto oocysts. Likewise, if they come in contact with infected feces, or consume insect prey that has ingested infected feces, the parasite can be easily transmitted.<br />
<br />
Crypto infected reptiles can also continually re-infect themselves by using their own contaminated water bowls and contact with their own feces, which creates large loads of this parasite to build up in their GI system very quickly. Fastidious disinfection is required to eradicate crypto infection, and will be discussed later in this article.<br />
<br />
== Clinical Symptoms ==<br />
Many reptiles are asymptomatic (no symptoms) but are known to be carriers of Cryptosporidium. The carrier status of lizards is not completely known yet, but it is known that the parasite may remain in a dormant state until the animal is subject to severe stress and/or immuno-suppression, and then begins to multiply to a clinical state. Unfortunately, most of the clinical symptoms of crypto infection are similar to other parasitic and bacterial infections, so making a diagnosis purely by symptoms is ambiguous.<br />
<br />
The progressive symptoms of Crypto in lizards are:<br />
<br />
* anorexia, loss of interest in food<br />
* regurgitation of food and undigested skin shed masses<br />
* change in consistency of feces, florid diarrhea, ‘cottage cheesy’ stools<br />
* weight loss, wasting away, thin tail<br />
* enlarged, darkened liver (hepatic lipidosis, or fatty liver)<br />
* lethargy<br />
* death<br />
<br />
== Diagnosis ==<br />
There are stages of the disease when it is sub-clinical and extremely difficult to detect. Until recently, the only 100% accurate method of diagnosis for crypto was post-mortem pathology of the stomach and intestines. In most cases, Cryptosporidium must be shedding, or in their reproductive stage, in order to be detected by conventional microscopic methods, as normal/routine fecal tests (floats and/or smears) are unreliable and produce too many false negatives.<br />
<br />
Today, more sophisticated and precise test methods are available to accurately diagnose Cryptosporidium infection. Samples of feces, regurgitated stomach contents, endoscopic biopsies, and by-products of cloacal or stomach flushes may be used to detect Cryptosporidium.<br />
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<br />
=== Acid-Fast Stain (AFS) Test: ===<br />
This common method employs the use of carbol-fuchsin, which is a mixture of phenol (carbolic acid) and basic fuchsin ( a biological purplish-red pigment), because it has a natural attraction to the mycolic acids found in cell walls. This compound stains the walls of the Cryptosporidium oocysts, creating a bright red contrast visible on laboratory glass slides under 100X microscopic power. This test may need to be repeated several times in order to make a positive diagnosis, as the parasite is not always shedding (in its reproductive state) in order to be visibly observed.<br />
=== Merifluor Immunofluorescent Assay (IFA) Test: ===<br />
This test is 16X more sensitive than AFS method. This method uses the blood, saliva, or other bodily fluids from an animal that is then evaluated by a laboratory. Certain chemical reagents are used which cause the targeted antibody or antigen, (any substance that causes your immune system to produce antibodies against it) to link to an enzyme, which are complex proteins that cause a specific chemical change in other substances, without being changed themselves. If the target substance is present in the sample, the test solution turns a different color when observed through fluorescence.<br />
=== Enzyme-linked immunosorbent Assay (ELISA) Test: ===<br />
Similar to the IFA test, this procedure uses components of the immune system and chemicals to detect immune responses in the body (for example, to infectious microbes). The ELISA test involves an enzyme (a protein that catalyzes a biochemical reaction), and an antibody or antigen (immunologic molecules). The ELISA test is generally considered to be the most accurate test for diagnosing Cyrptospridium infection, but is also more elaborate and therefore more expensive to perform.<br />
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== Treatment ==<br />
There is currently no medication or treatment available that will eliminate Cryptospoidia in reptiles, although there are promising treatments that seem to prevent the parasite from multiplying to levels where the infection is clinical. Current treatments appear to be more effective in snakes, and less so in lizards and tortoises. Many reptiles have maintained their health and have prolonged lives as a result of recent and ongoing treatment studies, but are still considered to be infected and can transmit the disease to other reptiles.<br />
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Since there is no ‘cure’ for crypto in reptiles at this time, the inevitable suffering and death of an infected lizard can be expected. Humane euthanasia is often the best course of action.<br />
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Some of the medications that are being tested and used are:<br />
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Bactrim/Septra/Albon (trimethoprim sulfa): A sulfa-based, broad spectrum antibiotic with excellent activity against most gram-negative organisms. This treatment has not proven to be effective in the treatment of Cryptosporidiosis in cold-blooded animals, but is very useful in treating Coccidiosis.<br />
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Halofuginone: An anti-coccidian agent which is an alkaloid originally isolated from the plant Dichroa febrifuga. This drug is similar to chemotherapy, which acts on rapidly multiplying cells. It does have a narrow margin of safety as it can actually weaken the immune system, which is a critical factor in keeping crypto suppressed.<br />
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Spiramycin: A macrolide antimicrobial agent (antibiotic) with activity against gram-positive and gram-negative organisms, including protozoans and many strains of bacteria. Since this medication also kills gram-positive bacteria which are essential for the digestive system to function properly, it can have detrimental effects by keeping the ‘good’ gut flora out of balance.<br />
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Paromomycin: A carbohydrate based drug that fights intestinal infections such as cryptosporidiosis and amoeba infection, or amoebiasis, by inhibiting protein synthesis within the organism. This treatment has proven more effective of Crytosporidia parvum, the type of crypto that affects mammals, but has limited effectiveness with cold-blooded animals.<br />
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Baycox (toltrazuril): A drug formulated specifically for the treatment of coccidian infections in farm animals. It interferes with the division of the nucleus and with the activity of the mitochondria, which is responsible for the respiratory metabolism of Coccidia. Since it was formulated for mammals, it also has limited effectiveness on reptiles.<br />
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Alinia (nitazoxanide): A drug formulated for humans used to treat diarrhea caused by the parasites Cryptosporidium parvum and Giardia lambia. This drug is currently being tested for treatment of Crypto in reptiles, but no definitive therapeutic results have been observed other than symptomatic relief.<br />
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Hyperimmune Bovine Colostrum (HBC): This treatment utilizes colostrum, a natural substance secreted by the mammary glands of cows, which provides passive immunity against Cryptosporidia parvum in mammals. Although HBC does not eliminate crypto in all reptiles, there is promising research being conducted* that may prove a cross-reactivity of the antibodies to that of Cryptosporidia serpentis.<br />
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<br />
-Studies performed by Drs. T. K. Graczyk, M. R. Cranfield, P. Helmer, R. Fayer, and E. F. Bostwick using Hyperimmune Bovine Colostrum have shown to eliminate Cryptosporidium in infected subject monitor lizards.<br />
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== <br />
Disinfection ==<br />
Cryptosporidium are remarkably resistant to many common disinfectants because their cell walls are impermeable to chemicals and drugs. Crypto oocysts can remain viable up to 18 months in moderately cool, damp or wet environments, so complete disinfection is mandatory to prevent cross-contamination and perpetuating the infection.<br />
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-Ammonium compounds or straight household ammonia is most effective<br />
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== Prevention ==<br />
The only success in eradicating Cryptospridium infection is through prevention. Isolation of infected and new animals, fastidious husbandry and cleanliness, reducing crowding and stress, and maintaining all animals in optimal health so that their immune systems are strong enough to fight off infection will be protocol.<br />
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As harsh as it seems, ANY reptile that has been positively diagnosed with Cryptosporidium should be humanely euthanized, and all cages and cage items discarded to protect any other reptiles in collections and colonies from being infected.<br />
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The following are guidelines in preventing crypto in reptile collections:<br />
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Quarantine ALL newly acquired reptiles, regardless of their origin, for at least 90 days. Practice fastidious husbandry and cleanliness during the quarantine period, and at all times.<br />
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* Quarantine any reptile that exhibits ANY symptoms of disease or sickness, and seek veterinary care immediately! DO NOT try to diagnose problems yourself, and follow prescribed treatment(s) as ordered.<br />
* Acquire reptiles only from reliable sources. Avoid buying reptiles from large chain pet stores, and ‘reptile mills’ or suppliers that deal in huge, volume sales. These reptiles are only inventory items.<br />
* Obtain fecal samples for veterinary examination for every newly acquired reptile. Most reptile diseases and parasites are completely curable if diagnosed and treated expeditiously.<br />
* Never interchange or recycle food items between reptiles or their enclosures.<br />
* Never interchange water bowls, cage furniture, décor, or any enclosures between animals or habitats without complete prior disinfection.<br />
* Educate yourself on Cryptosporidium. The internet and/or your veterinarian are GREAT places to learn! With reptiles becoming more mainstream as pets, and more veterinarians being trained and specializing in reptiles, knowledge is the best weapon in the fight against Cryptosporidium, and other reptile parasites and diseases.<br />
== Works Cited ==<br />
McGuiness, Marcia. Golden Gate Geckos. <Golden Gate Geckos>.<br />
custom essay<br />
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[[Category:Health]]</div>WikiAdminhttp://www.leopardgeckowiki.com/index.php/Eublepharis_turmenicusEublepharis turmenicus2021-02-14T06:40:56Z<p>WikiAdmin: Created page with "== Eublepharis turmenicus == Eublepharis turmenicus( Darversky, 1978) also known as the Turkmenian Fat-Tailed Gecko can be found in Southwestern Turkey and North Iran. Turkey:..."</p>
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<div>== Eublepharis turmenicus ==<br />
Eublepharis turmenicus( Darversky, 1978) also known as the Turkmenian Fat-Tailed Gecko can be found in Southwestern Turkey and North Iran. Turkey: Kemal and Aul Danata in the Kyurendagh Mountain Range, West Turkmenistan: Chandyr Gorge, Damghan and Shinkhindere Wells between the Sumbar and the Chandyr Rivers. Southwest Turkmenistan: In the Valley near the Arvaz River near the town of Bakharden; Chuly and Firjusa Gorge. Iran: North of Meshed and near Chakh-i-Ziru. It is presumed that populations in the Afghan province of Badghis also exist.<br />
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== Images ==<br />
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== Image Reference ==<br />
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[[Category:Natural History]]</div>WikiAdminhttp://www.leopardgeckowiki.com/index.php/Eublepharis_macularius_montanusEublepharis macularius montanus2021-02-14T06:40:02Z<p>WikiAdmin: Created page with "== Eublepharis Macularius Montanus == Eublepharis macularius montanus is one of the five subspecies of the common Leopard Gecko. They were first discovered by Boerner in 1976...."</p>
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<div>== Eublepharis Macularius Montanus ==<br />
Eublepharis macularius montanus is one of the five subspecies of the common Leopard Gecko. They were first discovered by Boerner in 1976. The Eublepharis macularius montanus is native to the Pakistan area.<br />
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== Images ==<br />
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[[Category:Natural History]]</div>WikiAdminhttp://www.leopardgeckowiki.com/index.php/Eublepharis_macularius_fasciolatusEublepharis macularius fasciolatus2021-02-14T06:39:19Z<p>WikiAdmin: Created page with "== Eublepharis macularius fasciolatus == == Images == == Image Reference == Category:Natural History"</p>
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<div>== Eublepharis macularius fasciolatus ==<br />
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== Images ==<br />
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== Image Reference ==<br />
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[[Category:Natural History]]</div>WikiAdminhttp://www.leopardgeckowiki.com/index.php/Eublepharis_macularius_afghanicusEublepharis macularius afghanicus2021-02-14T06:38:36Z<p>WikiAdmin: Created page with "== Eublepharis Macularius Afghanicus == Eublepharis Macularius Afghanicus is one of the five subspecies of the common Leopard Gecko. They were first discovered by Borner in 19..."</p>
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<div>== Eublepharis Macularius Afghanicus ==<br />
Eublepharis Macularius Afghanicus is one of the five subspecies of the common Leopard Gecko. They were first discovered by Borner in 1976. They are much smaller in comparison to other Leopard Gecko subspecies.<br />
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Their Range includes South-Eastern Afghanistan alongside the Kabul River and its tributaries, and adjoining Pakistani Northeastern Provinces. They are also found near the Afghan towns of Charikar and Gulbahar (North of Kabul) . This subspecies extends as far as the promontory of the Hindi Kush Mountains.<br />
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== Images ==<br />
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== Image Reference ==<br />
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[[Category:Natural History]]</div>WikiAdminhttp://www.leopardgeckowiki.com/index.php/Eublepharis_hardwickiiEublepharis hardwickii2021-02-14T06:36:52Z<p>WikiAdmin: Created page with "== E.hardwickii == Eublepharis hardwickii, also known as the East Indian Leopard Gecko can be found in East India (Orissa all the way to the South of Andhra Pradesh, and barel..."</p>
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<div>== E.hardwickii ==<br />
Eublepharis hardwickii, also known as the East Indian Leopard Gecko can be found in East India (Orissa all the way to the South of Andhra Pradesh, and barely North of Tamil Nadu.)<br />
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[[Category:Natural History]]</div>WikiAdminhttp://www.leopardgeckowiki.com/index.php/Eublepharis_fuscusEublepharis fuscus2021-02-14T06:35:54Z<p>WikiAdmin: Created page with "== E.fuscus == The Eublepharis fuscus and be found in West India (northern Karnataka, Maharashtra, Madhya Pradesh, Gujarat). == Images == == Image Reference == Category:..."</p>
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<div>== E.fuscus ==<br />
The Eublepharis fuscus and be found in West India (northern Karnataka, Maharashtra, Madhya Pradesh, Gujarat).<br />
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[[Category:Natural History]]</div>WikiAdminhttp://www.leopardgeckowiki.com/index.php/Eublepharis_angramainyuEublepharis angramainyu2021-02-14T06:32:15Z<p>WikiAdmin: Created page with "== E.angramainyu == Eublepharis angramainyu, also know as the Western Leopard Gecko or Iranian Fat-Tailed Gecko can be found in Northeastern Iraq, Southwest Iran, Northeastern..."</p>
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<div>== E.angramainyu ==<br />
Eublepharis angramainyu, also know as the Western Leopard Gecko or Iranian Fat-Tailed Gecko can be found in Northeastern Iraq, Southwest Iran, Northeastern Syria (Zagros-Mountains), and Turkey (Anatolia). In relation to their other Eublepharis cousins, they generally have a stronger yellow coloring. As hatchlings, they have 3 to 4 dark horizontal bands on their back.<br />
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[[Category:Natural History]]</div>WikiAdminhttp://www.leopardgeckowiki.com/index.php/VermiculiteVermiculite2021-02-14T06:24:00Z<p>WikiAdmin: Created page with "== vermiculite == Vermiculite is a substrate used in incubation of Leopard Gecko eggs. The main advantage of vermiculite over other incubation substrates is that it retains wa..."</p>
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<div>== vermiculite ==<br />
Vermiculite is a substrate used in incubation of Leopard Gecko eggs. The main advantage of vermiculite over other incubation substrates is that it retains water at high rates, and unlike other substrates, expands when heated. Large bags of vermiculite are available at gardening and hardware stores for around $20. To keep the vermiculite moist, keep a small cup of water in the incubator with the eggs. Just be sure to change it frequently.<br />
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[[Category:Care]]</div>WikiAdminhttp://www.leopardgeckowiki.com/index.php/SupplementsSupplements2021-02-14T06:23:12Z<p>WikiAdmin: Created page with "== Supplements and Dusting == Leopard geckos require several types of supplements to their food in order for them to stay healthy: calcium to maintain strong bones, vitamin D3..."</p>
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<div>== Supplements and Dusting ==<br />
Leopard geckos require several types of supplements to their food in order for them to stay healthy: calcium to maintain strong bones, vitamin D3 to metabolize the calcium, vitamins to provide other trace nutrients that they require. There is concern among some people that leopard geckos can overdose on any of these supplements (especially vitamin D3 since nocturnal animals require only small amounts)while others feel that the gecko is able to self regulate appropriately.<br />
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There are a variety of different supplementation strategies that people use. Here are two of the most common and effective:<br />
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A. Keep a small container (milk cap size is good) of calcium without D3 in the enclosure. Alternate dusting feeders with calcium with D3 and vitamins.<br />
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B. Dust feeders at each feeding with Repashy Calcium plus (which contains calcium, vitamin D3 and other vitamins). Don't leave calcium in the enclosure.<br />
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As long as your geckos are getting regular doses of calcium, vitamin D3 and other vitamins, they will likely be properly supplemented.<br />
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[[Category:Care]]</div>WikiAdminhttp://www.leopardgeckowiki.com/index.php/SubstrateSubstrate2021-02-14T06:22:04Z<p>WikiAdmin: Created page with "== Substrates == There are many substrates used for leopard geckos, however, loose substrates are not good for their health. Never ask for advice about substrates from pet sto..."</p>
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<div>== Substrates ==<br />
There are many substrates used for leopard geckos, however, loose substrates are not good for their health. Never ask for advice about substrates from pet stores, since they usually have little to no knowledge about proper leopard gecko care and will suggest sand. Sand is a bad choice of substrate for the most part, because it can likely cause impaction. However, there are incidents where people have used regular play sand or fine-grained calcium sand for adult leopard geckos. Both of these can still cause impaction if large amounts are consumed. Leopard geckos often consume sand or any other loose substrate when lunging at crickets. Leopard geckos have also been known to 'lick' calcium sand to satisfy their need for calcium. The packaging of the calci sand I bought claimed it was perfectly safe for reptiles and healthy if ingested. This is not true (there are no laws regulating the claims of herp products). Calci sand will cause impaction just like any other type of sand. Here's a list of good and bad substrates.<br />
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=== Good substrates ===<br />
* Solid non-adhesive shelf liner<br />
* Paper towels<br />
* Newspaper<br />
* Brown paper bags<br />
* Slate or ceramic tiles<br />
* Reptile carpets<br />
* Large rocks(for bottom only, or if built for a hide use silicone to prevent rocks from collapsing and injuring your gecko. Make sure to let the silicone dry completely for 2 days before putting into your tank )<br />
* vermiculite<br />
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=== Bad substrates ===<br />
* Mulch(wood pieces)<br />
* Sand(any type - can cause impaction )<br />
* Soil<br />
* Pebbles<br />
* Shredded wood<br />
* Any Loose Substrates<br />
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[[Category:Care]]</div>WikiAdminhttp://www.leopardgeckowiki.com/index.php/ShippingShipping2021-02-14T06:17:20Z<p>WikiAdmin: Created page with "== Leopard Gecko Shipping == To better understand how to do this go to the website: http://www.progeckos.com/caresheets/small_ship.htm which is where i got this from. It has p..."</p>
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<div>== Leopard Gecko Shipping ==<br />
To better understand how to do this go to the website: http://www.progeckos.com/caresheets/small_ship.htm which is where i got this from. It has pictures so it makes it easier! You will need the following materials for shipping your gecko safely:<br />
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Insulated box Tape Heat or cold pack Newspaper or Styrofoam peanuts Deli cup Paper towel Some type of punch<br />
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=== Step #1 ===<br />
First you will need an insulated box. There are several different sizes available. I use (7” x 7” x 6”), (12" x 9" x 6") and (15" x 11" x 7"). The first two have Styrofoam lining that is 1/2 inch thick while the last one is 3/4 inch thick. Thicker boxes have better insulation. Choosing the correct size box depends greatly on how many animals are being shipped.<br />
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=== Step #2 ===<br />
Assemble the box, taping all cracks, and add the Styrofoam lining as well. Punch a single hole on each side of the box. The holes are punched through the cardboard box and the Styrofoam and allow for a little air flow. I use a scratch awl to punch the holes. You can use anything such as a screw driver to do this as long as the holes are smaller than the thickness of a pencil. Holes really aren’t required but I like to add them.<br />
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Scratch Awl Hole<br />
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=== Step #3 ===<br />
You should only ship when the daytime temperatures in your area, the shipping company hubs and the destination are no lower than 40 degrees and no higher than 95 degrees. Shipping out of this range should never be attempted as it puts the animal's life at risk. At what temperature would you use heat packs or cold packs? Generally when the temperatures are between 60 to 80 degrees there is no need for a heat or cold pack. Below 60 degrees a heat pack should be used and above 80 degrees a cold pack should be used.<br />
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For Summer- Cold Packs You may need to use a cold pack for the summer and here’s how to prepare and place it in the box. I mainly use the 8 ounce bag that measures 5" x 7". There is also a 1 pound bag available that measures 5" x 10". Take the cold pack and wrap it about 2 times in newspaper. You can tape it so the paper won’t move but if the paper is large enough tape is not needed. Place the pack in the corner of the box or on the shortest length side. Make sure that when the geckos are placed in the box they are not right on the cold pack. Cold packs generally last 4 to 8 hours depending on temperatures.<br />
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Process in order from left to right:<br />
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Cold Pack Cold Pack Wrapped In Box<br />
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For Winter - Heat Packs In the winter months you’ll need heat packs when the temperatures are below 60 degrees. I use 40 hour heat packs. Heat packs should be preheated before they are placed in the box. Open the pack, shake it well to activate its contents and make sure the red line is exposed to air as this is where the perforated holes are. If the side with the red line is laid against a surface the pack won’t heat since it’s not getting air. They usually take 30 to 45 minutes to completely activate. Its peak surface temperature is approximately 110 degrees which it reaches between 17 to 19 hours. Tape the pack to the shortest length side with the red line facing toward the inside of the box. This is important because if the red line is placed against the Styrofoam it won’t work properly. How many heat packs do you add to the box? This depends on the daytime temperatures in your location, the location of shipping company hub and the destination. Each heat pack is capable of raising the temperature in the box 12 to 16 degrees. One heat pack per box is usually fine. If the daytime highs are around 40 degrees two heat packs can be used on the shortest length sides because the night time temperatures will be lower.<br />
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Process in order from left to right:<br />
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40 Hour Heat Pack Pre Warming Attached to Box<br />
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=== Step #4 ===<br />
With the heat or cold packs now ready and in place we need to get the geckos ready by putting them in deli cups. These are plastic containers that will be placed in the box. Deli cups are sold in several styles and come in many different sizes to suit your needs. They also come not punched or pre-punched. The pre-punched are excellent because the air holes are already made for you. For my baby and juvenile leopard geckos I use an 8oz or 12 ounce cup that has a diameter of 4 1/2 inches. Large full grown adults may also be put in a cup that has a diameter of 6 3/4 inches. Choosing the right size is critical because the box is guaranteed to be tossed around. If the deli cup is too large the gecko will be slapped around inside the cup as the box is tossed or dropped. If they are a little more snug you can make it less stressful for them. Never place more than one animal in each deli cup.<br />
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Once you have the correct size deli cup fold a paper towel and place it in the cup. This is used to give them a little cushion and to absorb any of their waste.<br />
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Now place the gecko in the deli cup and fasten the lid. Make sure it is completely on as you don’t want them to open it.<br />
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=== Step #5 ===<br />
Now with the gecko ready we can start packing the box. There are two different ways of doing this. One is using newspaper and the other Styrofoam peanuts. I've been using peanuts for a while now and prefer them over newspaper. They really add more insulation to the package and diffuse heat and cold rather than absorbing it like newspaper seems to do. I will show both methods below with newspaper being on the left and peanuts on the right.<br />
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Place a small layer of either newspaper or Styrofoam peanuts as a base. This works great for just a few geckos as it supports them and adds more insulation between the gecko and the outside of the box. If you are sending more than 4 geckos or have larger deli cups you don’t have to do this and can just place them on the Styrofoam box lining.<br />
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Crunch the newspaper up placing it tightly on the bottom of the box.<br />
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Place enough Styrofoam peanuts on the bottom of the box so it's covered. Any type of peanut will work and it’s ok if you have different types mixed together.<br />
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=== Step #6 === <br />
If you are shipping one gecko then place the cup in the middle of the box. Do this for both newspaper and peanuts.<br />
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=== Step #7 ===<br />
If you are shipping multiple geckos they can be stacked on one another or placed side by side. Remember if you are using a heat or cold pack don’t put the deli cup right by them. Do this for both newspaper and peanuts.<br />
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=== Step #8 ===<br />
With the deli cup in the box put newspaper around and on top of the deli cup so it has a snug fit. This keeps the deli cup secure from moving.<br />
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With the deli cup in the box fill the remaining space with peanuts. Make sure every space is packed with peanuts. <br />
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=== Step #9 ===<br />
Place the Styrofoam lid on and seal up the box. When taping the box I tape every crack. Tape the center of the flaps as well as on the side splits making an 'H' appearance. This helps better insulate the box.<br />
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You are now finished packing and your geckos are ready to be shipped. There are several servers you can use including UPS, FedEx and Delta Dash. I ship and prefer to use UPS Next Day Air that is guaranteed to arrive before 10:30am.<br />
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There is a new shipping service call Ship Your Reptiles. This service allows you to ship your animals overnight with huge discounts from retail prices.<br />
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Note This was written with Leopard geckos as an example but this method works with any type of small reptile such as other lizards, geckos, turtles, tortoises and even some snakes.<br />
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[[Category:Care]]</div>WikiAdminhttp://www.leopardgeckowiki.com/index.php/SheddingShedding2021-02-14T06:12:59Z<p>WikiAdmin: </p>
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<div>== Shedding ==<br />
Leopard Geckos, like all reptiles, shed. When shedding, they will turn a ghost white color. When they reach this color, the shedding will generally occur within 24 to 48 hours. To assist in shedding, a Humid Hide should be provided to the Leopard Gecko in the cage. Leopard geckos will eat their shed due the high nutritivity of it.<br />
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Shedding complications can be common, but are easy to fix. The most common shedding problems will occur in the toe and foot region. When there is excess skin stuck on the Leopard Gecko's feet or toes, there are two steps to removing the skin. First, give the Leopard Gecko a soak for five to ten minutes in lukewarm water. The depth of the water should only be enough to cover its feet. After the soak, if the excess skin still remains, a moist Q-Tip cotton swab, or your fingers, can be used to get the skin off. Gently rub the Q-Tip, going towards the toe tips. If these methods do not get the excess skin off, a local Reptile Veterinarian must be contacted. If the skin stays on their toes, over time it will become very tight, causing blood flow to stop, and the toe could fall off and/or become infected or gangrene. Check their toes regularly, and they will be grateful.<br />
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Often, when you are trying to get the skin off their toes, they will pull their foot away every time you touch it, making it difficult to get the skin off. After soaking your gecko's feet, try bending your knee up in the air while you sit on the bed. Set your gecko on the top of your knee. Then place the tip of your finger on top of the gecko's foot that you are working on. Your finger should cover most of their foot except the toes with the dead skin. Apply a little bit of pressure on their foot--obviously, not enough to hurt their foot. They seem to like this: if you do this, they will be a lot less likely to try to jerk their foot away as you carefully tease the skin off the toes with your other hand. As stated above, a cotton swab is one option. You may also be able to use tweezers--but they must not be sharp or you can hurt the skin. If you are using tweezers, you must have good eyesight to avoid jabbing or pinching their living skin. In any case, covering their foot with your finger seems to work very well, and is less annoying to your gecko.<br />
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== Images ==<br />
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== Image Reference ==<br />
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[[Category:Care]]<br />
[[Category:Health]]</div>WikiAdminhttp://www.leopardgeckowiki.com/index.php/ProlapseProlapse2021-02-14T06:11:41Z<p>WikiAdmin: </p>
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<div>== Cause of Prolapse ==<br />
Occasionally the male gecko hemipenis (one or both) or the female reproductive tract will prolapse. Prolapse occurs when a piece of organ or tissue is sticking out from the body and can't be reinserted naturally. The only place (usually) that you find prolapse in leopard geckos is around the the vent area. This is usually caused by mating (females), egg-binding, parasites or the leopard gecko straining to push out something hard. This is usually caused by impaction by sand or food which is too big causing the gecko to have to strain to force it out.<br />
<br />
== Curing a Prolapse ==<br />
One of the methods that you commonly find on the internet to remedy this is soaking the leopard gecko in a warm solution of dissolved sugar and water. The sugar solution reduces swelling and aids in retracting the prolapse by making it easier to reinsert. Preparation H, designed to shrink hemorrhoids can also be used. If this isn't successful it's important to seek help from a qualified reptile veterinarian. Don't try and force a prolapse to retract as it doesn't always work and can make the prolapse worse. Keep a leopard gecko with a prolapse on a non-particulate substrate such as paper towels and keep the prolapse moist with warm water. You should NEVER attempt to reinsert a prolapse back into your leopard gecko as it can harm your leopard gecko internally.<br />
<br />
== Reference ==<br />
http://www.leopardgeckoguy.blogspot.com<br />
[[Category:Care]]<br />
[[Category:Health]]</div>WikiAdminhttp://www.leopardgeckowiki.com/index.php/IncubationIncubation2021-02-14T06:09:57Z<p>WikiAdmin: Created page with "== Incubation == Once a Leopard Gecko lays eggs, there are a few different routes to take to hatch healthy Leopard Geckos. The information below will give an accurate descript..."</p>
<hr />
<div>== Incubation ==<br />
Once a Leopard Gecko lays eggs, there are a few different routes to take to hatch healthy Leopard Geckos. The information below will give an accurate description on how to do it. Before the eggs are laid, it is best to have the incubator set up at the appropriate temperature.<br />
<br />
=== Substrate ===<br />
The best options for incubation substrate are Hatchrite, Perlite, and Vermiculite. When using Perlite or Vermiculite it takes a little math to get the right mixture of Substrate to Water. The ratio is .8 parts of water for 1 part of substrate. The best process is to weigh the container, then zero the scale. After the scale has zeroed out, add the enough substrate for the egg to have 1/2 inch under it with the egg halfway covered. Then get the weight and multiply it by .8. This is the amount of water, weight-wise, which should be added. Now the eggs are ready to go in.<br />
<br />
=== Temperature ===<br />
Leopard Gecko eggs are best if incubated between 80°F and 89°F. Your incubation temperature will determine the percentage of males and females you will produce. When incubating between 80°F and 83°F majority of the hatchlings should be female. Between 84°F and 86°F an even ratio of males and females will likely be produced. Between 87°F to 89°F, males will be produced. Anything above 89°F can produce "hot females" who will be more aggressive, like males, and have a possibility of being infertile or will mature later than usual. Keep in mind, this formula is not full proof. There is always a chance a male could be produced at female temperatures and vice versa.<br />
<br />
The Mack Snows seem to be the only major exception to the rule. As of right now, they have not proven to be consistently Temperature Sexed.<br />
<br />
The temperature also plays a role in the incubation duration. The length of incubation can range from 40 days to 80 days, pending on the temperature. The higher temperatures will result in eggs hatching sooner. Generally the lower end of the spectrum, 80°F will hatch in approximately 60 days. There are always eggs that will take longer though. Do not throw the eggs out, unless they become very moldy and begin to smell bad.<br />
<br />
=== Incubator ===<br />
The most common incubator in the Leopard Gecko community is the Hovabator. The Hovabator is a quality incubator which must be used with a thermostat, preferably a proportional thermostat, since the thermostat that it comes with is not accurate or dependable enough. If not used with a thermostat, the incubator could fluctuate in temperatures, resulting in possible birth defects. Although many people have had good results with the hobovator, some consider it less than ideal since it heats from the top and is likely to dry out the eggs. Breeders are beginning to turn to store-bought or home-made mini fridges which can combine a heating function and cooling as well, when the ambient temperatures become higher than the incubation temperature.<br />
=== <br />
Bad Eggs ===<br />
A general rule when it comes to bad eggs is not to throw the egg out unless it is obvious the egg is bad. One of the leading indicators is a horrible smell. Other signs could be massive denting.<br />
<br />
=== Candling ===<br />
Candling eggs can help to determine whether your eggs are fertile. Take your eggs into a dark room and hold a flashlight at 1 end of the egg. Once the flashlight is turned on, the end of the egg will turn a pinkish color or a yellowish color. If it turns yellow, it is a sign the egg might be bad. Pink means the hatchling is growing in the egg. If the egg shows a yellow color, do not throw it out until you are 100% sure the egg is bad. There have been reports of some bad looking eggs hatching into beautiful Leopard Geckos. Although candling can provide fertility information, it is also important not to handle incubating eggs too much; frequent candling is not recommended.<br />
<br />
== Conclusion ==<br />
In conclusion, this article should put you on your way to hatching beautiful Leopard Geckos.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Proper incubation usually results in this miracle (Johnson).<br />
Image Reference<br />
Johnson, Kyle. MK Geckos. <http://www.mkgeckos.com>.<br />
[[Category:Care]]</div>WikiAdminhttp://www.leopardgeckowiki.com/index.php/Humid_HideHumid Hide2021-02-14T05:23:04Z<p>WikiAdmin: Created page with "== What is a humid hide and what is it for? == A humid hide is used to aid with shedding of Leopard Geckos. Leopard geckos do not need any humidity and like it dry but when sh..."</p>
<hr />
<div>== What is a humid hide and what is it for? ==<br />
A humid hide is used to aid with shedding of Leopard Geckos. Leopard geckos do not need any humidity and like it dry but when shedding they need a little moisture and humidity to aid with shedding. Humid hides can also aid in clearing impaction<br />
<br />
== How do I make a humid hide? ==<br />
Example of Containers for Humid Hides<br />
Making a humid hide is very simple and cheap. They do sell ones that are more natural looking but they cost more money. A lot of people, especially ones that have several Leopard Geckos make them to save money. To make one, you will first need a plastic container like these ones to the right.<br />
<br />
Those are just a couple of examples that will work, their are other shapes and sizes that work also. Be sure to clean it out good, once you have cleaned it good. Then your ready to cut a hole in the side, the hole needs to be large enough for the Leopard Gecko to enter and exit. Be careful not to leave any sharp edges, do not want the gecko to cut itself. Once you are done cutting your hole out, your pretty much done.<br />
<br />
<br />
== What to put into the humid hide? ==<br />
Once your humid hide is made, you are ready to add the substrate. I use and recommend moist paper towels, easiest to use, not messy,and safe. Some people use moss, while it will work, it tends to be more messy and can be a risk of impaction,especially for young geckos. Bed-A-Beast or Coco Fiber also holds moisture very well.<br />
<br />
== The Finished Product ==<br />
Completed Humid Hide<br />
<br />
== References ==<br />
Jason. "Making a Humid Hide." Herpinverts.net. Herpinverts. 6 Aug 2007 <http://z4.invisionfree.com/HerpinVerts/index.php?showtopic=1365>.<br />
--MK Geckos 15:24, 6 August 2007 (EDT)<br />
[[Category:Care]]</div>WikiAdminhttp://www.leopardgeckowiki.com/index.php/HideHide2021-02-14T05:21:33Z<p>WikiAdmin: Created page with "== Hide == A hide is a shelter that your gecko can hide in or under, or lie on. There are many different hides to choose from. A proper hide should provide shade, and give the..."</p>
<hr />
<div>== Hide ==<br />
A hide is a shelter that your gecko can hide in or under, or lie on. There are many different hides to choose from. A proper hide should provide shade, and give the gecko a feeling of protection. There should be at least two hides in a vivarium, one should be in the warm end of the tank, and the other in the cool end. You can also provide a gecko with a Humid Hide to help with the shedding process. You can even make your own custom hides to suit your gecko's needs. Avoid heat caves or heat rocks because they can severely burn your gecko.<br />
<br />
== Choosing a hide ==<br />
Hides come in various shapes, sizes, colors and designs, but some hides are not a good choice. Paper towel rolls work great with leopard geckos because they have two entrances, and typically block all light. Another choice is to use an empty plastic dish or deli cup with an entrance hole cut in it. You can also use a naturalistic hide (Found at many pet stores) as they work well too and look better in the terrarium depending on the surroundings. Don't use fish tank decorations, because they are frequently too small and there is a risk of your gecko getting stuck.<br />
<br />
[[Category:Care]]</div>WikiAdminhttp://www.leopardgeckowiki.com/index.php/HeatingHeating2021-02-14T05:20:36Z<p>WikiAdmin: </p>
<hr />
<div>== Heating ==<br />
Originating from a warm climate, leopard geckos need a constant supply of heat to help them regulate their body temperature. It is best to create a heat gradient by having a warm and a cool side to the enclosure, allowing them to move between the two and control their own temperature.<br />
<br />
You can heat your enclosure a variety of ways; there is not a one size fits all solution. There are just too many variables, from the temperatures and draftiness in your home, to the enclosure location in your home, to the type of enclosure you are using, etc.<br />
<br />
One of the ways people find best is to use a under tank heating device or "UTH", be it a traditional UTH, Flexwatt, heat rope, or other. You can also use Ceramic Heat Emitters, Radiant Heat Panels and Heat Bulbs in reflector lamps to name a few. In some cases you may need to use a combination of heating devices to achieve ideal temperatures. Also, it is my opinion that ALL heating devices should be used in conjunction with a thermostat or rheostat. With a little trial and error you should be able to maintain your temperatures in the ideal ranges.<br />
<br />
Ideal temperature ranges consist of a hot side of the tank between 87o F and 92o F with a cool side between 70o F and 78o F.<br />
<br />
Be aware that albinos are sensitive to bright lights, and may not do well with an overhead lamp. Juveniles should be kept away from light for at least 2 weeks.<br />
<br />
[[Category:Care]]</div>WikiAdminhttp://www.leopardgeckowiki.com/index.php/Heat_RockHeat Rock2021-02-14T05:20:09Z<p>WikiAdmin: Created page with "== Heat Rock == A Heat Rock is an electrically powered heating instrument, which should not be used in a leopard gecko's terrarium due to the high risk of severe burns. If you..."</p>
<hr />
<div>== Heat Rock ==<br />
A Heat Rock is an electrically powered heating instrument, which should not be used in a leopard gecko's terrarium due to the high risk of severe burns. If you have a heat rock in your terrarium, remove it for the safety of your gecko.<br />
<br />
[[Category:Care]]</div>WikiAdminhttp://www.leopardgeckowiki.com/index.php/Hatchling_CareHatchling Care2021-02-14T05:19:11Z<p>WikiAdmin: </p>
<hr />
<div>== Hatchling Care ==<br />
This section is to provide information about how to properly care for a hatchling.<br />
<br />
== Hatchling Housing ==<br />
Generally, hatchlings are housed in either a 6qt. to 7qt. shoe box tub or a 14qt. to 16qt. shirt tub. If housing in a shoe box tub, up to two hatchlings can be housed together until they reach approximately 15 grams. If housing in a shirt tub, up to 4 can be housed together until they reach 15 grams. Hatchlings can also be housed in small glass enclosures, or larger ones, divided into sections.<br />
<br />
=== Hatchling Furniture ===<br />
In the tub, regardless of the size, there are some requirements for the hatchling to thrive. First is a hide. Meat Trays or PVC Pipe cut in half seem to be the most efficient. Both are cheap and are perfect in size.<br />
<br />
Next is a source of water. At MK Geckos, we use caps from water bottles. These seem to be perfect, they are not too deep, but are not too shallow.<br />
<br />
Lastly, depending on how you feed your hatchlings is a mealworm dish. We have found Gatorade caps work the best. They are hard for the mealworms to crawl out of and the hatchlings can see over them. In the dish, regardless of the feeding, you will want to add some calcium powder to prevent MBD in the hatchlings.<br />
<br />
=== Hatchling Substrate ===<br />
There are two ideal substrates for Leopard Gecko hatchlings: either a bare tub or paper towels. This will prevent impaction and allow the hatchlings to thrive.<br />
<br />
== Hatchling Food ==<br />
When feeding hatchlings, most people choose to use either crickets or mealworms. With crickets, 1/8" to 1/4" crickets are best. Small to mini mealworms are the best size for new hatchlings. The hatchlings, will not want to eat until their first shed, or even after their first poop. The best time to offer food for the first time is after the first shed.<br />
<br />
== Moisture ==<br />
To enable proper shedding, it is best to mist the tub daily. This will give the proper moisture and allow the hatchling to shed properly.<br />
<br />
--MK Geckos 21:17, 20 September 2007 (EDT)<br />
[[Category:Care]]</div>WikiAdminhttp://www.leopardgeckowiki.com/index.php/FoodFood2021-02-14T05:17:07Z<p>WikiAdmin: Created page with "== Feeding == Feeding leopard geckos is a simple process which is why keeping leopard geckos is so easy. Leopard geckos are insectivorous, and therefore can only be maintained..."</p>
<hr />
<div>== Feeding ==<br />
Feeding leopard geckos is a simple process which is why keeping leopard geckos is so easy. Leopard geckos are insectivorous, and therefore can only be maintained on a diet of various insects. Feeder insects or "feeders" can be easily found at either local pet stores, or through purchasing in bulk online. Each has its advantages and disadvantages, but both options work well as long as you insure the insects are of high quality. Never feed any bugs that you have caught from outside, as they have the potential to be carrying parasites, or have been sprayed by pesticides and other chemicals.<br />
<br />
Making sure all feeders are properly "gut loaded" is very important. Gut loading is the process of feeding the insects very nutrient rich foods that will then be fed to the geckos. Crickets are a solid example of this, as without proper gut loading they are mostly an empty shell with minimal nutrients.<br />
<br />
== List of Feeders ==<br />
Providing a variety of feeders is helpful to maintain a healthy gecko as each type provides different nutritional value. Some insects work best as the main portion of the gecko's diet, or as the "staple" food source, while others should only be offered occasionally due to high fat contents.<br />
<br />
Geckos can be picky eaters, and some will refuse certain feeders that others may readily eat. Making sure you're familiar with the various options available will help in choosing the feeder right for you and your gecko(s), and will help you provide a good, balanced diet for your animals.<br />
<br />
=== Mealworms ===<br />
Tenebrio molitor - A common staple food source, Mealworms are the larval form of a type of darkling beetle. Along with being used to feed reptiles, they are also popular as fishing bait and for feeding to birds, making them an easily found feeder insect.<br />
<br />
Throughout their life cycle they remain a perfect size for adult leos. They are very easy to breed for owners with larger gecko colonies, and can also be kept dormant in the refrigerator for those who only use a couple at a time. These feeders will eat a mixture of grains or whole oats, and carrots or potatoes can be used to provide moisture.<br />
<br />
Mealworms are best fed to the gecko by placing them in a small bowl with tall enough sides that they cannot climb out, and yet the gecko can still reach them. Additional calcium or vitamin supplements can be added to the bowl as well.<br />
<br />
However, very rarely, since mealworms have a very hard exoskeleton, pieces of the mealworm could get lodged inside the gecko's intestines, resulting in impaction. However, that is extremely unusual.<br />
<br />
=== Superworms ===<br />
Zophobas morio - Superworms are a very good staple diet for your gecko. They can be kept at room temperature for long periods of time without worrying about pupating such as with Mealworms. Superworms have a higher fat ratio, so therefore geckos fed on super worms tend to be bigger then other geckos. Not many breeders use super worms because they are more expensive then mealworms. Remember, gut load all feeders before being fed.<br />
<br />
=== Crickets ===<br />
Acheta domestica - Crickets are probably the most well-known feeder insect, and make an excellent staple food source when properly gutloaded and maintained.<br />
<br />
=== Cockroaches ===<br />
There are several different kind of cockroaches that could be used as food for Leopard geckos. Two common species are the Orange spotted cockroach, Blaptica dubia and the Russian cockroach, Shelfordella tartara. Nutritionally cockroaches are similar to crickets but as usual a lot depends on how well fed the insect is before being given to the lizard.<br />
<br />
=== Waxworms ===<br />
Galleria mellonella - Waxworms are the caterpillar form of Wax Moths and have the strong reputation of a being a "treat only" feeder. These tiny white worms are very high in fat content, making them unsuitable as a staple food source.<br />
<br />
Waxworms can be kept in the refrigerator to prevent them from pupating, and are wonderful as occasional treat for leopard geckos. The "waxworm wiggle" is said to be irresistible to leos, and they are even recommended to help get non-eating geckos interested in food again by feeding a few to begin with.<br />
<br />
=== Hornworms ===<br />
Tomato Hornworms are the caterpillar form of the Five-Spotted Hawkmoth (Manduca quinquemaculata) and can grow to be quite massive. These worms are impractical as a staple food source due to how quickly they grow, and how large they can grow, the fully grown worms topping out at 2-3 inches in length. They can make great treats however, when smaller worms are purchased in small quantities.<br />
<br />
=== Silkworms ===<br />
The Silkworm is the larval or caterpillar form of the domesticated Silk Moth (Bombyx mori). While most commonly known to popular culture for their use in producing fine fabrics, they also make an excellent food source for reptiles.<br />
<br />
Similar to Hornworms, Silkworms can grow too large for adult leos, but make excellent treats while smaller. They must be maintained on mulberry leaves or appropriate "silkworm chow" for the duration of their life cycle.<br />
<br />
=== Butterworms ===<br />
Butterworms are the larval form of the Chilean Moth, Chilecomadia moorei. They are similar to waxworms in appearance, but are much larger and have a very high fat and calcium content. These insects are mainly imported directly from Chile, and are irradiated before leaving the country to eliminate possible dangerous bacteria. However, this also causes the worms to be unable to pupate and mature into moths.<br />
<br />
Butterworms can be stored in the refrigerator for several months, and are best used as occasional treats.<br />
<br />
=== Phoenix Worms ===<br />
The larval form of the Black Soldier Fly, Hermetia illucens, phoenix worms have a very high calcium content, along with being very low in fat.[1] They can be fed in a bowl like mealworms or superworms and don't require any additional dusting with vitamin supplements. Phoenix worms can be stored at room temperature for several weeks with needing additional food, their best shelf life being achieved between temperatures of 50-60o F.<br />
<br />
=== Pinky Mice ===<br />
"Pinky" mice are day old baby mice. Some breeders feed these to their females who have recently laid eggs in order to help them better re-gain weight and nutrients during the breeding season. Pinky mice are strictly a treat only option, usually in the case of breeding females, as they have very high fat contents which would be unhealthy if fed over a long term.<br />
<br />
When you first purchase your leopard gecko you might not be able to get it to eat for the first week. I even had a gecko go a month and then just started eating like a tank.<br />
<br />
I cannot stress enough about GUTLOADING! gut load ALL feeders 24 hours prior to feeding your gecko. That making the insects more healthy and active. Remember ‚"You are what you eat!"<br />
<br />
== Nutrition Chart ==<br />
Crickets<br />
Mealworms<br />
Waxworms<br />
Superworms<br />
Fly Larva<br />
Butterworms<br />
Moisture, %<br />
69.07%<br />
62.44%<br />
61.73%<br />
59.37%<br />
68.18%<br />
58.54%<br />
Fat, %<br />
6.01%<br />
12.72%<br />
22.19%<br />
17.89%<br />
7.81%<br />
5.21%<br />
Protein, %<br />
21.32%<br />
20.27%<br />
15.50%<br />
17.41%<br />
15.58%<br />
16.20%<br />
Fiber, %<br />
3.2%<br />
1.73%<br />
7.69%<br />
6.80%<br />
3.46%<br />
-<br />
Ash, %<br />
2.17%<br />
1.57%<br />
1.02%<br />
1.20%<br />
1.40%<br />
1.04%<br />
Ca, ppm<br />
345<br />
133<br />
283<br />
124<br />
874<br />
-<br />
P, ppm<br />
4238<br />
3345<br />
2161<br />
2320<br />
2405<br />
-<br />
Ca/P Ratio %<br />
.081<br />
.040<br />
.131<br />
.053<br />
.363<br />
-<br />
== Reference ==<br />
This text belongs to Kaleb kroetsch/Linda Dobson and to only be on Leopard gecko wiki. If you want to use my text please contact me at Kash6969@rogers.com.<br />
[[Category:Care]]</div>WikiAdminhttp://www.leopardgeckowiki.com/index.php/BreedingBreeding2021-02-14T05:11:53Z<p>WikiAdmin: Created page with "== Breeding == Leopard geckos are easy to breed under the right conditions. Females need to be at least 50 grams and males should be at least 45 grams. === Introductions ===..."</p>
<hr />
<div>== Breeding ==<br />
Leopard geckos are easy to breed under the right conditions. Females need to be at least 50 grams and males should be at least 45 grams.<br />
<br />
=== Introductions ===<br />
Notice how the male is biting the female to start the breeding. This is perfectly normal (Johnson).<br />
<br />
After the tail biting, the scene can quickly turn into this picture (Johnson).<br />
<br />
This is a picture of a male cleaning himself (Johnson).<br />
There are a few different methods to introducing the male with the female(s). The first method is to put the female in the male's tank. Another is to put the male into to female's tank. Either method works.<br />
<br />
When the male is ready to breed, he will make a buzzing noise with the end of his tail and then bite the female. The female will either allow him to proceed or she will tell him she is not ready. If the female does not want to mate she will usually bite back or run away; she may also wave her tail in the air.<br />
<br />
After the male is done with the female, he will turn to clean himself. This should take no longer than 10 minutes. While doing this, he should not be disturbed. After he is finished cleaning himself, make sure his hemi-penis retracts. If it does not, you might be dealing with a prolapse.<br />
<br />
=== Egg Laying ===<br />
The gestation period for the eggs is about two to five weeks. If the female has not laid her eggs in the given time frame, it is possible she could be egg bound. Please contact your local Reptile Vet if this is the case.<br />
<br />
Females will generally lay clutches of two eggs. Rarely clutches of three eggs will be laid. Most first-time females will lay single-egg clutches. The number of clutches each female will lay depends on the female. Many first time breeders will not be as productive as proven breeders.<br />
<br />
=== Fertility ===<br />
Although Leopard Geckos can retain sperm, to maximize the fertility of the eggs, it is best to reintroduce the male to the female once every two to three clutches if the male and female(s) are being housed separately.<br />
<br />
== Breeder Care ==<br />
To make sure your breeding geckos are getting the proper nutrients, you should always gut load your feeders so your geckos get the proper vitamins. It is also important to dust the feeders with calcium powder to help with egg production and prevent MBD in laying females.<br />
<br />
== Incubation ==<br />
For proper incubation, please see the incubation article here.<br />
<br />
written by Amber Spatzer (geckophile:snowleopard)<br />
<br />
Edited: --MK Geckos 17:13, 13 September 2007 (EDT)<br />
<br />
[[Category:Care]]</div>WikiAdminhttp://www.leopardgeckowiki.com/index.php/Basic_CareBasic Care2021-02-14T05:03:21Z<p>WikiAdmin: Created page with "== Basic Leopard Gecko Care == Below you will find the basic information about how to care for a Leopard Gecko. == Housing == There are a few basics to housing Leopard Geckos..."</p>
<hr />
<div>== Basic Leopard Gecko Care ==<br />
Below you will find the basic information about how to care for a Leopard Gecko.<br />
<br />
== Housing ==<br />
There are a few basics to housing Leopard Geckos. For tank size, generally a 10 gallon tank is perfect for one Leopard Gecko. When you have more Leopard Geckos, generally it is about 10 gallons per gecko. So if you have two Leopard Geckos, a 20 gallon tank is preferred.<br />
<br />
Inside your tank, you will need to provide a few basics for your Leopard Geckos such as a dark hide, humid hide, water bowl, supplements, and food dish. Leopard Geckos are nocturnal animals, meaning they are active at night rather than the day. They need a hide that will stay dark while it is light outside or in the room to reduce stress.<br />
<br />
Although Leopard Geckos are from the desert, they still require a source of humidity. The easiest way to provide this is to create a humid hide. A humid hide can be as simple as Tupperware container with a hole cut into it for the gecko to enter. Inside, you will need to have a moist substrate. At MK Geckos, we use Bed-A-Beast for all of our humid hides; moist paper towel can be used too.<br />
<br />
For a substrate (what goes on the bottom of the tank) many breeders prefer paper towel. Lots of Leopard Gecko owners use Repti-Carpet, Slate or Ceramic Tile. One thing to keep in mind when choosing a proper substrate for your Leopard Gecko is to stay away from loose substrates. Loose substrates lead to impaction which usually results in death.<br />
<br />
== Heating ==<br />
The best way to provide heat for Leopard Geckos is through an under tank heater. An under tank heater gives Leopard Geckos the heat where they need it. Since they are nocturnal animals, Leopard Geckos do not get their heat from the sun, but from the rocks that have absorbed the heat from the sun. With that said, one might think a heat rock would be the best source of heat. It is not; heat rocks tend to get hot spots which can burn your Leopard Gecko. As for temperatures, Leopard Geckos are best kept with a hot side of the tank between 87° F and 92° F (though some people prefer to set temperatures a bit higher, up to 95-97) with a cool side between 70° F and 78° F.<br />
<br />
== Feeding ==<br />
There are a few different options when feeding Leopard Geckos. The two best ways to offer food to your Leopard Geckos is either a bowl of gutloaded mealworms or offering gutloaded crickets. Both food options need to be gutloaded. It is best to offer the crickets fresh carrots, lettuce, and bread. For mealworms, potatoes and wheat bran are sufficient. Cody's Pro Geckos also sells a gutload called Cody's Pro Gutload which many breeders including MK Geckos uses.<br />
<br />
When offering mealworms to your Leopard Gecko, it's best to do so in a bowl. Simply refill the bowl as needed. The Leopard Gecko should be allowed to eat as much as it wants. For crickets, put the crickets into the cage, and give the gecko time to get the crickets. After about an hour or so, take the crickets that have not been eaten out. If they are not taken out, the crickets will nibble on the gecko's body.<br />
<br />
Supplements are also needed for your Leopard Gecko. A multivitamin and calcium are a necessity. A Gatorade cap worth of calcium should be offered at all times in the cage. Along with the cap, the food source should be dusted with calcium (with vitamin D3) about once a week. The multivitamin should be used to dust the food source two to three times a week.<br />
<br />
A water dish must be available for the gecko at all times. You might not see your geckos drinking, but they are using it.<br />
[[Category:Care]]</div>WikiAdminhttp://www.leopardgeckowiki.com/index.php/CareCare2021-02-14T05:02:00Z<p>WikiAdmin: Created page with "== Leopard Gecko Care == You will be able to find articles about basic care, handling, and breeding for Leopard Geckos."</p>
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<div>== Leopard Gecko Care ==<br />
You will be able to find articles about basic care, handling, and breeding for Leopard Geckos.</div>WikiAdminhttp://www.leopardgeckowiki.com/index.php/White_and_YellowWhite and Yellow2021-02-14T04:58:20Z<p>WikiAdmin: /* Image Reference */</p>
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<div>== White and Yellow ==<br />
A White and Yellow is a [[dominant]] Leopard Gecko morph. White and Yellow hatchlings come out of the egg looking very similar to [[Hypo]] or [[Super Hypo]] hatchlings. Another indicator is tail coloring. Currently they hatch with very limited Carrot Tailing. As adults they tend to look similar to the [[Enigma]]s. Through Matt Baronak's test breedings thus far he has concluded they are not [[Enigma]]s. They do not exhibit the same eye traits as the [[Enigma]] and have not done the star gazing or spinning that some [[Enigma]]s exhibit.<br />
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Since the White and Yellow trait is [[dominant]] you can have two different types: [[Heterozygous]] and [[Homozygous]]. A [[Homozygous]] White and Yellow when bred to anything aside from a White and Yellow will create 100% [[Heterozygous]] White and Yellow Leopard Geckos. If a [[Heterozygous]] White and Yellow is bred to anything aside from a White and Yellow there is a 50% chance of creating a White and Yellow.<br />
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It is currently unknown whether there is a super form of the White and Yellow, similar to the [[Mack Snow]] and [[Super Snow]]. This will be discovered through further test breeding.<br />
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== History ==<br />
The White and Yellow morph first appeared in the year 1996. Two breeders from Belarus saw the White and Yellow appear in their collection. It came about as a random genetic mutation. Sergey and Raise Prohorchik had a female hatchling which looked different from all of the others. The female hatchling was bred back to the male father the following breeding season. Their results put them on the path to proving the White and Yellow to be genetic. At the time it was thought to be a [[dominant]] morph. The hatchlings showed a strong white coloring while the others showed a strong yellow coloring. That was when the White and Yellow name was coined.<br />
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In 2002 Sergey and Raise sold their first batch of White and Yellow Leopard Geckos. A large amount were sold to Russia, the others across Europe.<br />
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In 2008 Matt Baronak from SaSobek's World of Reptiles Sent Henrick and Lotta from GekkoGalasken. female [[Mack Snow RAPTOR]], [[Sunglow]] [[Bell Albino]] [[Enigma]], [[Stripe]] [[Rainwater Albino]] and a [[Nova]]. GeckoGalaken also breed their male W/Y to a G project female from SaSobek Reptiles and a [[Rainwater Albino|Rainwater]] [[Murphy Patternless]] [[Blizzard]]. In 2009 Matt received males from all of the crosses and a few females. While all of them looked different then wild type or normal geckos, some did not prove out to be white and yellows.<br />
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Currently Matt has been test breeding the White and Yellow and crossing them into many different lines in order to prove the morph is a stand alone and does not have any other traits involved. His results to this day have proved that it is for sure a genetic trait but it is not a simple as people may think.<br />
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== Who is working with them? ==<br />
Creators of the morph - Sergey & Raisa Prohorchik Prohorchik Reptiles, their article<br />
Henrick et Lotta GekkoGalasken<br />
Karsten Griesshammer Geggos.de<br />
Matt Baronak SaSobek's World of Reptiles<br />
Geckonice. Gecko Nice<br />
Ewald Mistelbauer PythoniumGeckos<br />
Rebecca Hassler Dragoon Gecko<br />
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== Images ==<br />
[[File:SS White&Yellow2.jpg|thumb|center|White and Yellow (Baronak).]]<br />
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[[File:SS White&Yellow3.jpg|thumb|center|White and Yellow (Baronak).]]<br />
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[[File:Griese whiteandyellow2.jpg|thumb|center|White & Yellow (Griesshammer).]]<br />
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[[File:Griesi WY16.jpg|thumb|center|White and Yellow (Griesshammer).]]<br />
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== Image Reference ==<br />
* Baronak, Matthew. SaSobek's World of Reptile's.<br />
* Griesshammer, Karsten. [http://geggos.de Geggos.de].<br />
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[[Category:Morphs]]</div>WikiAdminhttp://www.leopardgeckowiki.com/index.php/TyphoonTyphoon2021-02-14T04:55:28Z<p>WikiAdmin: </p>
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<div>== Typhoon ==<br />
A Typhoon is the [[Rainwater Albino]] version of the [[RAPTOR]]. It is a combination morph that is [[homozygous]] for [[Rainwater Albino]], [[Eclipse]], and [[Patternless]]. Of the three different albino strains, the Typhoons were the last to be crossed into the [[Eclipse]] trait.<br />
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The challenge in making both the Typhoon and the [[RADAR]] was to ensure the [[Eclipse]] trait did not carry any [[Tremper Albino]] genes in it. Since the three different albino strains are not compatible, it is usually frowned upon to cross different albino strains. In order to ensure the gecko carrying the [[Eclipse]] trait for the Typhoon and [[RADAR]] projects did not carry [[Tremper Albino]], years of cross breeding had to be conducted.<br />
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== Images ==<br />
[[File:Matt typhoon2.jpg|thumb|center|Typhoon produced by Matt Baronak.]]<br />
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== Image Reference ==<br />
* Matt Baronak<br />
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[[Category:Morphs]]</div>WikiAdminhttp://www.leopardgeckowiki.com/index.php/TUG_SnowTUG Snow2021-02-14T04:54:46Z<p>WikiAdmin: /* Image Reference */</p>
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<div>== TUG Snow ==<br />
A TUG Snow or The Urban Gecko Snow, is a Snow line created by Craig Stewart from The Urban Gecko. The TUG Snows come from a selectively bred Wild Caught group. Stewart believes his snows are axanthic, a genetic trait where little to no yellow is produced. The TUG Snows are also a [[dominate]] trait.<br />
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Many people have wondered if a TUG Snow is bred to a [[Mack Snow]] if [[Super Snows]] would be produced. A few breeders have in fact created [[Super Snows]] from breeding a TUG Snow to a [[Mack Snow]].<br />
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== Images ==<br />
[[File:Tugsnow1.jpg|thumb|center|This is a TUG Snow from Dirty Stinky Stuff]]<br />
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== Image Reference ==<br />
* Dirty Stinky Stuff, Tamara Locke<br />
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[[Category:Morphs]]</div>WikiAdminhttp://www.leopardgeckowiki.com/index.php/Tremper_AlbinoTremper Albino2021-02-14T04:52:21Z<p>WikiAdmin: </p>
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<div>== Tremper Albino ==<br />
Tremper Albinos also known as Texas Strain Albinos were the first of the three strains of [[Albino]]s to be discovered in 1996 by Ron Tremper. Tremper Albinos can range in colors from dark browns to light yellows, oranges, and pinks. The Tremper Albino eyes tend to be a silver color with red veins.<br />
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Since Tremper Albinos were the first strain of Leopard Gecko Albinos to be discovered, they are very common and usually the first strain to be worked with when crossing into other morphs. For example, Ron Tremper has developed the [[RAPTOR|R.A.P.T.O.R.]] with the Tremper strain. He has now made the [[Diablo Blanco]]s and is working on Super R.A.P.T.O.R.'s ([[Super Snow]] [[RAPTOR]]s).<br />
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== Images ==<br />
[[File:Tremper Hatchling3.jpg|thumb|center|Tremper Albino Hatchling]]<br />
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[[File:Tremper Tiny.jpg|thumb|center|This is a darker Tremper Albino Hatchling]]<br />
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== Image Reference ==<br />
* MKGeckos<br />
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[[Category:Morphs]]</div>WikiAdminhttp://www.leopardgeckowiki.com/index.php/Tangerine_TornadoTangerine Tornado2021-02-14T04:51:03Z<p>WikiAdmin: </p>
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<div>== Tangerine Tornado ==<br />
A Tangerine Tornado is a [[Tangerine]] Line developed by Craig Stewart from The Urban Gecko. [[Tangerine]] Tornado's have a deep red orange coloring. Generally the coloring is more red than many other Tangerines.<br />
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== Images ==<br />
[[File:GV-GeckosTUGTangerineTornado.jpg|thumb|center|Tangerine Tornado]]<br />
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== Image Reference ==<br />
* GV-Geckos Germany<br />
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[[Category:Morphs]]</div>WikiAdminhttp://www.leopardgeckowiki.com/index.php/TangerineTangerine2021-02-14T04:50:16Z<p>WikiAdmin: </p>
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<div>== Tangerine ==<br />
A Tangerine is any Leopard Gecko that shows Tangerine or Orange hues in their body. The Tangerine colors also show up in all three strains of the [[Albino]s]. The amount of spots on the back of the Leopard Gecko, the amount of [[Carrot Tail]], and the amount of head spots further breaks the Tangerines into different categories. There are Super Hypo Tangerine Carrot Tails, Baldys, Tangerines, and Super Hypo Tangerines.<br />
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== Images ==<br />
[[File:Rainbow4.jpg|thumb|center|Notice the Orange Pigment on his body.]]<br />
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[[File:Thumper10.jpg|thumb|center|Classic Example of a SHTCT]]<br />
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== Image Reference ==<br />
* MKGeckos<br />
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[[Category:Morphs]]</div>WikiAdminhttp://www.leopardgeckowiki.com/index.php/TangeloTangelo2021-02-14T04:49:42Z<p>WikiAdmin: </p>
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<div>== Tangelo ==<br />
The Tangelo is a combination morph developed by Ron Tremper. The traits combined to obtain a Tangelo are [[Tangerine]], a [[Line Bred]] trait, and the [[Tremper Albino]], a [[Recessive]] trait. In appearance, the Tangelos will have a [[Tremper Albino]] eye and will be a deep orange to a red color. See the pictures below for examples.<br />
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== Images ==<br />
[[File:Mmtangelo1.jpg|thumb|center|This is an example of a tangelo purchased from Ron Tremper by Mike Rekowski (Rekowski).]]<br />
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[[File:Mmtangelo3.jpg|thumb|center|This is an example of a Tangelo (Rekowski).]]<br />
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== Image Reference ==<br />
* Rekowski, Mike. Reptiles by Rekowski.<br />
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[[Category:Morphs]]</div>WikiAdminhttp://www.leopardgeckowiki.com/index.php/Super_StealthSuper Stealth2021-02-14T04:49:09Z<p>WikiAdmin: </p>
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<div>== Super Stealth ==<br />
A Super Stealth is a combination of the Leopard Gecko genetic traits [[RADAR]] and [[Super Snow]]. It combines three different [[homozygous]] genetic traits, [[Eclipse]], [[Bell Albino]], and [[Super Snow]]. It also includes the [[Patternless]] trait.<br />
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== Images ==<br />
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== Image Reference ==<br />
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[[Category:Morphs]]</div>WikiAdminhttp://www.leopardgeckowiki.com/index.php/Super_Snow_PatternlessSuper Snow Patternless2021-02-14T04:48:17Z<p>WikiAdmin: </p>
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<div>== Super Snow Patternless ==<br />
A Super Snow Patternless is a combination morph of a [[homozygous]] [[Incomplete Dominance]] morph and a [[homozygous]] [[recessive]] morph, the [[Mack Snow]] ([[Super Snow]]) and the [[Murphy Patternless]]. The Super Snow Patternless, are relatively grey to white in color, with a solid white stripe down the spine, solid white legs and feet, white sides, and solid black eyes. They vary in shade and resemble the [[Super Snow Blizzard]] combination morph.<br />
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== Images ==<br />
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== Image Reference ==<br />
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[[Category:Morphs]]</div>WikiAdmin